Renowned Pakistani mountaineer Lt Col (retired) Dr Jabbar Bhatti is gearing up for an exciting expedition to conquer Nanga Parbat, the world’s ninth highest peak. Located in Diamer, Gilgit-Baltistan, this 8,126-meter giant awaits Bhatti’s arrival on June 03, 2023.
Fully aware of the potential obstacles that lie ahead, Bhatti acknowledged the extreme weather conditions. Temperatures can drop as low as -35°C to -40°C, and winds may reach speeds exceeding 300 kph. Nevertheless, Bhatti confidently affirmed his readiness for the task at hand, stating, “As a mountaineer, I am prepared to face these challenges head-on and fully equipped.”
Speaking to reporters, Jabbar expressed his enthusiasm for the upcoming climb, stating, “Alongside four other team members, I will depart from Islamabad to take on this challenging peak.” Joining Bhatti on the expedition are Asif Bhatti, Dr Naveed, Saad Muhammad, and Faheem Pasha.
Bhatti’s determination to conquer mountains while maintaining his education is well-remembered by his fellow batchmates from Faisalabad Medical College. In 1981, during his final year as a student, he surprised his peers by opting for a two-week climbing course through the Alpine Club of Pakistan. Despite his commitment to mountaineering, he achieved the remarkable feat of receiving The Best Graduate Award in MBBS.
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The subsequent years marked significant milestones in Bhatti’s journey. In 1982, he joined the Pakistan Army and attended a climbing course at the prestigious French National School of Mountaineering (ENSA) the following year. Unexpectedly, in 1984, he filled a vacant military liaison officer position for an expedition led by renowned mountaineer Reinhold Andreas Messner.
This expedition, Gasherbrum-I & II, became a turning point for Bhatti. Under the guidance of Messner, he accomplished his first 8,000-meter climb in 1985, scaling Broad Peak (8,050 meters). Bhatti’s ascent astonished the mountaineering community, as he adopted the alpine style—climbing without porters or advanced supply dumping.
In Pakistan, he became the youngest Pakistani to conquer an 8,000-meter peak, earning him the prestigious President’s Award for Pride of Performance.
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Later, Bhatti volunteered to join the Special Services Group (SSG) and honed his skills in paragliding. His life revolved around military expeditions, serving with the SSG, working as a doctor in the Army Medical Corps (AMC), and mastering various disciplines of gliding. He retired with honor in 2007, holding the rank of Lieutenant Colonel.
As Jabbar Bhatti sets his sights on Nanga Parbat, the mountaineering community eagerly awaits his latest conquest. With his extensive experience and unwavering determination, Bhatti continues to inspire others and push the boundaries of mountaineering in Pakistan.
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